Alexander Schaaf

Hiking the North Coast of Devon

This summer I hiked about 140km of the South West Coast Path along the North Devon coast. I started out at the trail terminus at Minehead and walked just before Westward Ho! After the very dry June that blessed my previous cycling trip, I was about to wade into an incredibly wet and stormy July – even by British standards.

The northern trail terminus in Minehead.

The first day on the trail was a beautiful 16km hike from the campground near Minehead to the small town of Porlock at Porlock Bay. Although I arrived pretty early in the afternoon, I decided to stay here to not avoid getting stuck wild camping somewhere in the forecast heavy rain for the next day.

The first day leads along pastures fairly far from the coast.
Coming down the hills into the Porlock Bay on the first day.

I ended up sitting out a day in Porlock due to a full day of constant rain and strong winds. Thankfully the town had a great little pub and the campsite a sheltered area to chill and mingle with other campers – so I wasn’t stuck in my tiny single person tent.

After a day of endless downpur Porlock Bay looked a wee bit different.

Starting from Porlock the path went back to the storm beach, walking along loose pebbles to Porlock Weir. From their the path sneaks up the hill and keeps hugging the steep costward slope through lush vegetation, offering shelter from the early morning rain.

Landslides are a frequent occurence along the steep hills hugging the cost.
I was blessed with only occasional rainshowers and some rainbows on the second day of walking.
The path leads through beautifully lush vegetation along the coast towards
Fallen trees slowly getting overgrown by the surrounding lush green flora.
Making my way to Lynton in the distance.
Walking among somewhat moody clouds and rock outcrops.
Coming out of the green and into the more muted path outside of Lynton.
Waking up to this view from my tent on a dry morning.
Passing one of many gates keeping sheep and cows on their pastures.
Calm landscapes heading towards Combe Martin
Heading out of Combe Martin, looking back to where I came from.
The steeply inclined beds of rock keep on coming.
Up and down along jagged cliffs.
Beautiful views thanks to a brief break in the clouds.
With my background in geology I can't pass up on some rock pics.
Wild camping at Baggy Point, sheltered from the wind in a little depression.
Watching the diminishing daylight at Baggy Point.

Overall I only had a couple of days worth of good weather and was hit by three days that were just neverending heavy rain. That my new tent was leaking didn’t necessarily help – although it made for a great gear test for my upcoming Te Araroa trhu-hike.

But despite all that it was a beautiful route with spectacular views along the rough coastline of North Devon.